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Useful Guidance & Tips

Top Tips

Top Tips

Here at Supaturf, we are dedicated to Line marking and in particular our service to you, the customer. In this section, you will find details, helpful hints, tips and information on the Supaturf Line Marking machine systems that are designed to help you maintain and look after your machine. If you cannot find a solution in this section, please contact your Supaturf Representative. Our friendly representatives are fully trained, experienced and ready to help. No matter what you need. Details for your area representative can be found on the contact page. If you cannot see a local contact for your area, please contact the Kwazulu-Natal Durban & Costal Region. This is the Supaturf South Africa head office and they will be happy to help.

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Tyre pressure: It is important to ensure that the pressure in the tyres of your line-marking machine is kept at a consistent level. The height of the spray nozzle and its distance from the ground determines the width of the line being sprayed. If your tyres have lost pressure and are slightly flat, this will alter the height of the machine from the ground and, therefore, the height of the nozzle. Also, different tyre pressures will cause the machine to behave differently on different surfaces and quality of surfaces. For example, if a ground has many bumps in it and the tyres on the machine are at half pressure, the machine will be springier as it traverses the ground and the bumps will accentuate this effect. This may cause the sprayed line to fluctuate slightly and give the impression of wavy edges. Also, if one tyre is at a lower pressure that the other, particularly if it is lower than the tyre opposite, it may cause the machine to drag or pull to one side, making it more difficult to control and keep in a straight line. The tyres on the Supaturf TLS & TXE are factory set at 20 Psi at the manufacturing stage and are included in the Quality checking procedures prior to dispatch. This gives the tyre a solid feel but is not at maximum pressure. The operator may choose their own preference for the tyre pressure based on the conditions the machine is being used in – Very dry, hard ground would be fine with lower tyre pressure. The maximum tyre pressure that these wheels should be inflated to is 60 Psi. NOTE: Remember – tyre pressure will change depending on the ambient temperature around the machine, higher or lower temperatures will cause the tyre to expand and contract respectively. For this reason it is not recommended to inflate the tyre to its maximum allowed pressure.

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There are two strainers on the TLS and one on the TXE. The TXE strainer is located under the main tank and directly behind and attached to the pump. The TLS filters are accessed through the rear panel and are easily located once the rear panel is removed.

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To access the strainer mesh, simply unscrew the grey plastic strainer cap and remove this form the main body of the strainer. Inside this there will be a red, circular strainer mesh. This can now be removed and any build up/residue line marking liquid washed off. When finished simply replace the mesh back into the strainer and screw the cap back in place, ensuring that the filter seal (a round flat ‘o’ ring that sits in a groove inside the grey cap) is in place and that the cap is screwed firmly in place.

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Accessing the mesh in these filters is the same principle as the TXE above, though the TLS strainers are smaller and have a clear cap. There is one strainer from the main tank to the cleaning valve and one from the wash tank to the cleaning valve. It is important to regularly check and clean the strainer on both machines. If residue is allowed to build up on the strainer mesh, it will cause a loss of pressure in the machine and will affect the finished quality of the line sprayed.

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Both the TLS & TXE machines have the same blue nozzle filter, which is located in the spray valve with the nozzle tip and seal. To access this filter, simply half turn the nozzle cap and remove. The filter may come away with the cap but may still be up inside the spray valve. Simply hold your hand under the valve and quickly turn the machine on and off again. This should push the nozzle filter out of the valve. This filter can now be leaned before being replaced in the spray valve. It is very important to ensure this filter is kept in place as it ensures that the nozzle tip is kept clean and clear at all times.

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The Nozzle tip Filter & seal are located in the cap on the spray valve at the front of the machine. The TLS & TXE have the same spray valve, Tip, Filter & Seal. The cap is attached to the spray valve via a half turn bayonet fixing. Removing the cap will expose the tip, filter & seal. It is advisable to regularly check the condition of the tip, as it will wear out over time. Once the hole in the tip begins to wear, it will become larger and this will affect the quality of line being sprayed. It is sensible to remove the nozzle tip, filter & seal after each use and place these in a small container (a cup or such) filled with clean water, until next use. This will keep them clean and clear and prolong the life of these parts. If the nozzle tip does become blocked or need cleaning, first try blowing through the tip to clear the blockage. When cleaning the tip, use a soft brush (such as on old toothbrush) and gently scrub in and around the hole in the tip. Never use a pin or similar hard object or a hard or abrasive brush. This will damage the tip and it will need replacing. In normal use, a nozzle tip should be replaced on average every 6 months. If a nozzle tip becomes worn out, the spray pattern it delivers will be affected. The running pressure of the machine will drop and the line quality will drop. The ability of the pump to deliver full pressure is directly governed by the nozzle tip. A larger nozzle tip will allow more Line marking liquid onto the grass but will reduce the operating pressure of the pump. The opposite is also true when using a smaller nozzle tip.

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The spray valve on the TLS & TXE machines is called a DCV – this stands for Direct Control Valve – and it is this that ensures the precise shut of and non-drip feature of the machine. When the pump supplies pressure, it will open the DCV and allow liquid to flow through. When the pump stops, the DCV snaps shut and stops the flow from continuing, and does not allow even residual pressure to leak through to the tip. The control part of the valve is located in the side of the unit and is accessed by unscrewing and removing the cap with the red portion attached. Inside this are a rubber diaphragm seal and the spring loaded control valve itself. Applying pressure to the valve, which should spring freely in and out can test the control valve. If this feels stiff or has no movement at all, the DCV will need replacing. T
he diaphragm can be easily replaced but it is not very often that this is required. It is a good idea to test this valve when receiving a new machine, just to familiarise yourself with the feel of the spring. Always replace the diaphragm before use.

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In all cases of general maintenance, it is important to know that air being drawn into the system will affect the quality of line/spray that the machine delivers. It is vitally important that all seal are made on the machine as, if any air is allowed to be drawn into the system, the pump may not be able to provide enough pressure to produce an adequate spray pattern. Try this for yourself, remove the strainer seal from the pump strainer and operate the machine. You will see and understand the effect of air being allowed into the system (remember to put this back in afterwards). This effect will be the same if tubes connections are not positively made or if tubes develop holes of splits in them. It is important to regularly check the condition of all the seals and tubes on your machine. If air is getting into the system, the flow of liquid will likely be very slow and the pump will splutter as it attempts to spray.

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Before assuming there is a major problem with the machine, pump or missing seals or damaged tubes it is advisable to perform a purge or bleed of the system. This is simply running the machine to ensure that the flow of liquid is pure and that the pump will deliver a consistent, uninterrupted flow. Purging may be necessary after the machine has been cleaned and allowed to run dry of any liquid. To identify if a purge is needed, you will observe the action of the spray pattern from the nozzle tip. If air is in the system, the spray will flutter or splutter slightly and air will be clearly hear coming though the nozzle tip. The spray tube connected to the spray valve will also be fluttering and ‘bouncing’ around. The purge is performed in the same way as detailed below in the pump section but will involve the use of Line marking liquid, as you are preparing the machine for use. On the TXE: Separate the tube at the disconnect point between the spray arm and the main machine. Now operate the switch and allow the pump to work on an open line, taking care as to where the spray is directed, as it will be Line marking liquid. A suitable receptacle should be used to collect the Line marking liquid, and this can then be returned to the tank to prevent any waste. Run the machine for 10 to 20 seconds to purge the air. Switch off the machine and reconnect the tubes. Now when you operate the machine there should be no pulsing and the spray tube should only be lightly vibrating, which is natural vibration through the pump. On the TLS, the open line can be achieved by separating the tube at the tap located on the spray vale at the front of the TLS but the test will be performed in the same way. Remember that you may have to purge the system for both the main and wash tanks on the TLS.

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The TLS & TXE pump is the same on both units. This pump has been specifically designed for use with Line Marking Liquids and is not just a standard water pump. The inner workings of the pump are serviceable but it is best to allow a trained Supaturf representative do this, as any loss or damage to the pump will result in expense and will invalidate the warranty of the machine. On older machines it is more than acceptable to do this maintenance in house. Contact Supaturf for advice when necessary maintenance is needed. If you believe that you are not getting adequate pressure through the pump, it may be that replacement parts/servicing is needed. There is an easy field test to do to ascertain if the pump is running at the correct pressure. On the TXE: Put 2 to 3 litres of clean water in the main tank. Separate the tube at the disconnect point between the spray arm and the main machine. Now operate the switch and allow the pump to work on an open line. The jet of water that the pump produces through the disconnected tube should reach approximately 1 metres distance from the end of the tube. If this is the case, the pump is fine and the reason for the pressure loss is likely to be in the spray valve, either a blocked or worn DCV or possibly a blocked nozzle filter or nozzle tip. On the TLS: Perform the test in the same way but remember it is not necessary to put clean water in the main tank as the test can be performed from the wash tank. The open line can be achieved by separating the tube at the tap located on the spray vale at the front of the TLS. It is not possible for the TLS to spray to a meter on an open line, simply due to the configuration of the system. What you are looking for here is a strong steady flow that arcs to approximately 30 cm from the end of the tube. In both machines, if the water is only trickling out of the end of the tube, there may be a problem with the pump and servicing/replacement parts will be needed. In the event of poor quality definition of line or an obvious pressure loss, always check the condition of the Nozzle tip first, and then ensure all strainers are clean and clear. If a pump needs replacing, you will need to retain the fittings from the inlet and outlets on the pump head. When attaching these to your new pump, it is important to know how to fit these. First, the thread on the fitting should be wound with PTFE (Plumbers) tape. This will help seal the fittings and prevent leaks or allow air into the pump. Next wind the fittings into the pump head by hand until resistance is felt. Now, using a spanner turn the fitting three and a half turns to tighten in place. Do not exceed this, as over tightening of these fitting will crack the pump head housing and render the pump inoperable.

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If the pump has stopped working and you are concerned that it has become faulty, there is a simple test to perform to see if it is, in fact, the pump not working or simply a break in the electrics. Disconnect the pump wires from the main loom. Hold the black wire from the pump directly onto the black terminal on the battery. Next hold the red wire from the pump directly onto the red terminal on the battery. If the pump now begins to work, then this is fine and the electrical fault will be somewhere else on the system.

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The electrical system on the TXE & TLS is very simple and comprises a simple round circuit, which is broken at the switch. When the switch is placed in the on position, the circuit is completed and the machine will begin to spray. If the machine does not spray immediately, there may be an electrical fault. In the first instance, with a new machine, check that all terminals are connected onto the battery. When dispatched, the battery terminals are disconnected to ensure that the machine cannot inadvertently switch on when in transit. After this and on older machines, the first thing to check is the fuse. It could save a lot of time and effort in searching for a fault that may simply be a blown fuse. The TXE & TLS systems both operate with a 5-amp blade fuse. This is located on the main loom, on the wire that connects to the red terminal on the battery. The fuse is located in a sealed holder, which can be opened to access the fuse. The next thing to do is perform the simple electrical test above. This will determine if the pump runs straight off of the battery and can eliminate the pump and battery as the problem. If the fuse is intact, there may be a disconnected, broken or corroded wire or connection somewhere on the machine. This will usually be on the main loom at the base of the machine on a TXE or around the terminal block connection on the TLS, accessed through the rear panel. It may be necessary to remove the main tank on the TLS to completely check all wires. It is also advised to check in the switch, which can be easily removed from the handle. Remember to take care when replacing the switch, that you do not trap any wires. Check the condition of the wires, and in particular the bullet connections. If everything looks intact, it may be a part is needed, such as the actual switch itself.

Battery: The battery on the TXE is a 12 volt 7.2 Ah. This battery will run for two hours continual use. The battery on the TLS is a 12 volt 18 Ah. This will run for five hours continual use. The whole TXE & TLS electrical system is 12 volt. When in use, it is the Ah that is being used to power the machine and the battery should always stay at 12 volts. If the battery is allowed to drain completely, the voltage will begin to drop. This is the point where a battery will begin to be in trouble. If the battery appears to be faulty or not holding a charge, possibly the machine is not working to its full time output or producing full pressure, it may be the battery will need replacing. Using a multimeter (or volt meter) set to DC20, the voltage on the battery can be tested. If the voltage of the battery is less than 11 volts, the battery must immediately be placed on charge. If the voltage is below 8 volts, it may not be possible for the battery to recover and will need replacing. It is important not to push the battery past its time output, as this will lead to damage. It is also good practice to place the machine on charge after every use.

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The battery on the TXE is a 12 volt 7.2 Ah. This battery will run for two hours continual use. The battery on the TLS is a 12 volt 18 Ah. This will run for five hours continual use. The whole TXE & TLS electrical system is 12 volt. When in use, it is the Ah that is being used to power the machine and the battery should always stay at 12 volts. If the battery is allowed to drain completely, the voltage will begin to drop. This is the point where a battery will begin to be in trouble. If the battery appears to be faulty or not holding a charge, possibly the machine is not working to its full time output or producing full pressure, it may be the battery will need replacing. Using a multimeter (or volt meter) set to DC20, the voltage on the battery can be tested. If the voltage of the battery is less than 11 volts, the battery must immediately be placed on charge. If the voltage is below 8 volts, it may not be possible for the battery to recover and will need replacing. It is important not to push the battery past its time output, as this will lead to damage. It is also good practice to place the machine on charge after every use.

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The chargers supplied with Supaturf machinery are 3 stage intelligent chargers. These chargers perform 3 very important tasks besides its main function of charging the battery. First, the charger will tell you if a connection is made when it is plugged into the charging socket of the machine. When connected to the mains, a red light will begin flashing on the unit, once connected to the machine; this light should stop flashing and become solid red. If it continues to flash red, the charger is telling you there is a break in the circuit that is not allowing it to connect with the battery and begin charging. If the red light is flashing, first check the fuse, and then perform an inspection of the electrics. If all these are fine, it may be that the battery is faulty and will need replacing. Once the red light becomes solid, the machine is now charging. After a period of time, this light will change to amber. This shows that the battery is absorbing the charge. This simply means that it is in its main charging stage. Once complete, the light will change to green and the machine is ready for use. The charger will automatically stop supplying charge into the battery once it has turned green. There is no danger of over charging if the charger is left connected. The third task the charger performs is to tell if the battery is in good condition following a charging cycle. Once the charging cycle is complete, the charger should show a solid green light to denote that the charge is complete. If left connected for at least 30 minutes, the green light will begin to flash. This means the charger is performing a cell test to determine if the battery will hold the charge. If the battery is ok, the light will return to solid green. If there is a problem with the battery, the charger will reset and attempt to charge the battery again. The charger will complete this two times in an attempt to recover the battery. If this fails, the light will flash through all three colours to alert you to the problem. Note: The red or amber lights can stay on for almost the whole duration of the charge. Just because the red light may be visible for several hours while charging does not mean it is not doing its job. It is advisable to place the machine on charge overnight. This way you will not be waiting for it to charge and it will be ready for use in the morning. Warning: Do not use any other charger other than that supplied with the machine or by an official Supaturf Representative. Using the wrong charger can be catastrophic to the battery and may damage it beyond repair.

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It is essential to clean the tank and system of your machine after every use. This will prolong the life and maintain the performance of your machine. Thorough cleaning will reduce the need for costly maintenance and ensure that the machine is ready for use every time and will not break down when it is most needed. Regular servicing is also advised and is provided by your Supaturf Representative.

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They are there for you and always ready to help.

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